by Luna

by Luna

Luna

Luna

Blog Intro

Hello, I'm Luna, and I'd like to welcome you to "Kisses from Kairo,"* my blog about living and working as an American belly dancer in Cairo.

Life in Cairo isn't easy for dancers, foreigners, women, or even Egyptians. It is, however, always exciting. That’s why after living here for seven years, I've decided to share my experiences with the world. From being contracted at the Semiramis Hotel to almost being deported, not a day has gone by without something odd or magical happening. I will therefore fill these pages with bits of my history in Cairo—my experiences, successes, mistakes, and observations. Admittedly, my time here has been rather unique, so I want to stress that while everything I write is true, my experiences do not necessarily reflect the lives of other dancers.

In addition to my life as a belly dancer, I will write about developments in costuming, performances, festivals, and, of course, the dance itself. I will also make frequent references to Egyptian culture. I should note that I have a love/hate relationship with Egypt. If I make any criticisms about the country, please keep in mind that I do so with the utmost love, respect, and most of all, honesty. Egypt has become my home, so I want to avoid romanticizing and apologizing for social maladies, as most foreigners tend to do. Nothing could be more misguided, patronizing, or insulting.

I hope you find this blog informative, insightful and entertaining, and that we can make this as interactive as possible. That means I'd love to hear from you. Send me your comments, questions, complaints, suggestions, pics, doctoral dissertations, money, etc., and I will get back to you. Promise. :)~



My Videos

Wednesday, November 14, 2018

Dance or Die



Dubai

The following is an excerpt from Fire In The Belly, a memoir by Zaina Brown. I've known Zaina for more than ten years now. We go back to Yosry Sharif in NYC. :) She amazed me then and she amazes now. Her dancing, her integrity, her adventurous spirit, and now, this brain child of hers about her travels as a foreign dancer across the Middle East and Africa. Simply put, you NEED to buy her book. It'll give you a good hard look into what it means to be a dancer in the Arab world.

Access Fire in the Belly on Facebook or on Instagram
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“I will put you in the program for April. But, you will need a tan, a small injection of silicon in your lips, and you should gain four kilograms. Then you will have just the right look for a bellydancer!” Salim exclaimed from the driver’s seat.

“Okay, Salim. Just for you, I’ll get a spray tan. But I don’t think I should gain four kilos!” I didn’t bother explaining that injecting silicon into the lips was a terrible idea. Hyaluronic acid, however, could be arranged. A temporary tint was no problem, either, but it would have to be a spray tan. I knew from experience that self-tanners from a bottle made your hands bright orange and your skin smell like rotisserie chicken. Going on a heavy diet to gain weight was a ludicrous gamble, though. Club-goers in Dubai were all too quick to call a bellydancer fat.


Hours earlier, I had arrived in Salim’s restaurant with zero expectations, at the insistence of my agent Panos. I loathed going to clubs to hustle for contracts. Nineteen times out of twenty, it was a waste of time and makeup - and made me look desperate - but there was no saying no to Panos. He knew full well Salim had met me several times already and remained equally unimpressed each time. Why would it be any different now? My Brazilian colleagues, who were highly sought-after in Dubai’s competitive bellydance market, came with just the right golden tan and dance style. Salim’s clientele set another beauty standard: Beirut chicks didn’t shy away from the needle. I for one was a pale, lipless Scandinavian, who had to constantly prove her non-Russianness to the world. Nothing lowered your market value in Dubai like being branded an Eastern European.

I had asked Malika, an Iraqi American dancer, to join me for moral support. She hung around Dubai with her beautician mother and made periodical efforts to get into Panos’ roster. Bellydance contracts meant working every single night, which was a hindrance to a girl’s social life. From Malika’s eagerness to come along for this mission, I gathered she wasn’t currently dating anyone worthwhile. Having some female company helped diffuse the awkwardness of sitting opposite the elderly Salim and his current Lebanese songbird, a girl who spoke with a high-pitched voice and made pouty, baby-like expressions. Instead of joining her in batting my eyelashes at Salim, I immersed myself in a conversation with Malika. Coming here would have been for nothing, though, if we didn’t hit the dancefloor to go through the motions at some point.

The strategic moment for a round of ‘So You Think You Can Bellydance’ came during the male singer’s set. When the crooner settled into a classic Egyptian song, I nudged Malika and we headed towards the stage in our tight jeans and skimpy tops. At least I had learned how to dress for these occasions. The first times Panos took me out with him to meet club managers and to decorate his table, I had looked like a kidnapped nun in ankle-length skirts and long-sleeved tops. I was a recent arrival in the UAE by way of Egypt and Yemen, and therefore conditioned to cover my skin in public. I felt intimidated by the men in these clubs, and the breast implants on the stage. Now I knew my way around restless hands under the table and was friends with many of the implants. What a difference a year made.

The only women to get up and dance, besides the bellydancer, were Moroccan hookers in dramatic makeup and extremely short dresses, trying to catch a trick. The Lebanese housewives wore their eyeliner just as thick and their heels as high, but stayed glued to their seats under their husband’s protective arm, a hookah pipe embedded between their full lips. Here were Malika and I now, the unemployed bellydancers. Our impromptu appearance energized the five-piece band. The singer moved over to the side and spoke gracious words of welcome into the microphone. This was always a nerve-racking moment, trying to show my best moves from the best angle to the man in charge watching me, in front of a crowd who had seen a thousand bellydancers and their mothers. This time around, I simply didn’t care. Panos wasn’t here. Salim was a lost cause. Without some divine intervention, I would never work in this establishment – but right now, I was dancing here.

I sank inside the music and forgot about my surroundings. This feeling was what had kept me going since my first bellydance class at age thirteen. It had taken me a decade to become a fully-fledged professional, making my living as a bellydancer in New York City. Over there, it was a much more relaxed, let-all-breasts-bloom type of scene. Only recently, while working with Panos, had dance become a laundry list of physical attributes. I’d absorbed this mindset in order to survive in the business - but it didn’t mean I was buying into it. I let go and danced from a deep, rebellious place in my heart, one which no longer worried about some old Lebanese man rating me. I danced for myself. Even if no one in this city thought I looked the job or had the right dance style, I would soldier on.
Somehow, Salim saw me with new eyes. His face was glowing as Malika and I returned to the table. When it was time to leave, he offered me a ride with a meaningful glance: He wanted to talk business.

It wasn’t the first time I was sitting in his passenger seat at one in the morning.

"Salim will drive you home," Panos had told me the first time he introduced me to Salim.

I didn’t know what to think.

"Thank you, but that's not necessary! I'll just take a taxi!"

"No. He will drive you."

I tried excusing myself into the taxi line twice more, but Panos wouldn’t hear it. Salim was already getting his car, and he was driving me, there was nothing more to it. I had two options: defy and insult my agent who held my life in his hands - or go with Salim.

I made a quick judgment call. I didn't see Salim as the backseat rapist type, so I doubted I was in any danger. Salim was about as old as Panos, whom I’d classified as a centenarian, and short of putting a gun in my head there was little he could do to get me into his apartment. Maybe he just wanted to be seen leaving with someone. In the car, I tried to diffuse the awkwardness with incessant chit-chat, a trick from my teenage hitch-hiking days. I learned Salim had moved here from Lebanon when Dubai was just a mid-sized desert town, and Beirut a war zone.

I later heard from the Brazilian girls that Salim liked to be friendly with the dancers. He had never directly tried to get anyone to sleep with him, but he loved attention. To stay in good terms, you had to periodically rub shoulders with him. I made a mental note of getting in his care more often.

“I am very happy for you that Mr. Salim decide to put you in his program,” Panos emailed me a few days later. “For this he remove one Brazilian dancer.”

Whether the last remark was supposed to make me feel guilty, or remind me of how replaceable we all were, was hard to say.

April was still months away, and Panos sent me for contract in Bahrain. This didn’t lend itself to an opportunity to remind Salim of my existence, but I was fairly confident my spot was secure. Why would he ditch me just because I’m not there, I assured my restless mind.

Come March, I emailed Panos to ask about the starting date of the contract with Salim, so I could get those silicon lips and tan going.

“Right now I don’t have anything for you after Bahrain,” he replied. “Mr. Salim put one Argentinian dancer in your place, you know he’s always changing his mind.”

I sighed and put the syringe down.

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